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Fishy tales. And heads. And dogs and frogs... (I)
“不靠譜”的美食:魚頭、狗肉和青蛙的故事(上)

By David Ferguson
China.org.cn staff reporter

The first dish I was ever served in China was cold pickled chicken's feet.
The first dish I was ever served in China was cold pickled chicken's feet.


The very first time I arrived in China, my wife and I were collected at Beijing airport by one of her friends, who insisted on taking us for a sumptuous lunch. It was about four in the morning UK time, and, as ever following a long flight, I was feeling queasy from the lack of sleep and the alcohol that had failed yet again to induce it. Sumptuous lunch was not high on my agenda. 我第一次來(lái)到中國(guó)的時(shí)候,我妻子的一個(gè)朋友在北京機(jī)場(chǎng)迎接我們。這位朋友堅(jiān)持要帶我們?nèi)コ院廊A大餐。當(dāng)時(shí)是英國(guó)時(shí)間凌晨四點(diǎn),我在長(zhǎng)途飛行過(guò)后通常會(huì)有些反胃,因?yàn)樵陲w機(jī)上難以入睡,不得不求助于酒精,卻又無(wú)濟(jì)于事。在這種情況下,當(dāng)務(wù)之急顯然不是去吃大餐。
On that day, the first dish I was ever served in China was cold pickled chicken's feet. It's hard to describe what these are like – "imagine eating a cold, pickled, chicken's foot" is about the best I can do. They consist of skin, bone, cartilage, and a claw. Once you've developed a taste for them, you can move on to hot spicy chicken's feet, although I didn't try these until later. 那一天,我平生在中國(guó)吃的第一道菜是一盤腌制過(guò)的雞爪冷盤。我很難向你描述這菜的味道,只能說(shuō):“想像一下你在啃一只冰涼的、腌制過(guò)的雞爪子?!彼鼈兂云饋?lái)全都是皮、骨頭、軟骨和腳爪。等到你吃慣了這道菜,可以進(jìn)一步去嘗試麻辣雞爪,不過(guò)我是到后來(lái)才做這樣的嘗試的。
My local food market in Jilin is a cavernous hall – a riot of fruits, vegetables, herbs, spices, oils, meats, poultry, and (mostly live) fish. It's almost, dare I say it, "vibrant". 在吉林市,我家附近的菜市場(chǎng)是一個(gè)寬廣深邃的大廳,各種瓜果蔬菜、油鹽醬醋、雞鴨魚肉、生鮮產(chǎn)品,應(yīng)有盡有,琳瑯滿目;簡(jiǎn)直可以用“生機(jī)勃勃”來(lái)形容。
The first time I saw a dog's carcass for sale I was quite startled. It was skinned whole, from the nose to the tip of the tail, and it lay on the market butcher's slab like a white marble statue. Dog is primarily a Korean dish, but Jilin Province borders on Korea so there is a strong influence on the local culture. Eating-dogs are farmed for the purpose – a big, mastiff-type breed. 第一次見(jiàn)到有人賣狗肉時(shí),我嚇了一跳。那只狗整個(gè)剝了皮,從鼻頭到尾巴尖都光溜溜的,躺在市場(chǎng)肉鋪的案板上好似一座白色的大理石雕像。狗肉本來(lái)是道朝鮮菜,但是吉林與朝鮮接壤,所以當(dāng)?shù)厥芡鈦?lái)文化影響很深。食用狗體態(tài)很大,屬獒犬類,是專門養(yǎng)殖以供食用的。
As a general rule, dog is good to eat, apart from dog skin salad, which I generally try to dodge. Peppery dog soup is an effective hangover cure, and fried dog, in flavour and texture, is somewhere between beef and brown turkey meat. 通常來(lái)說(shuō),狗肉很好吃;不過(guò)涼拌狗皮除外,我一向?qū)δ莻€(gè)敬謝不敏。辣味狗肉湯對(duì)于解除宿醉有奇效;而炸狗肉吃起來(lái),味道、口感介于牛肉和棕色火雞肉之間。


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